The recent renovation of Fasilides Castle, a 17th-century architectural landmark in Gondar, has ignited a heated debate among Ethiopians at home and abroad. While some view the project as a triumph of conservation, others argue that it has compromised the castle’s historical authenticity and, by extension, the identity of Gondar itself—often referred to as Ethiopia’s “Yellow City.”
At the heart of the controversy is the castle’s altered appearance. Traditionally, Fasilides Castle bore a distinctive yellowish hue, a visual signature that many locals associated with Gondar’s historic character. The restoration, however, has given the structure a brighter, whiter façade, the result of new lime mortar used in the renovation process. The change has left residents and heritage enthusiasts divided, raising larger questions about Ethiopia’s approach to urban development and historical preservation.
Across the world, cities are often defined by their colors—Catania, Italy, is black; Berlin, red; Paris, gray; and San Francisco, a pastel rainbow. In Morocco, Marrakech is famously red, while India boasts Jodhpur, the Blue City, and Udaipur, the White City. Gondar, Ethiopia’s first planned city and once its imperial capital, has long been known for its golden tones. Now, some fear that a defining aspect of its identity is being erased in the name of modernization.
For many, Fasilides Castle is more than an architectural relic—it is a symbol of Ethiopian resilience, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has withstood centuries of change. Yet, time has taken its toll. The structure suffered significant wear and tear, prompting the government to step in with restoration efforts. But what should have been a straightforward conservation project has instead sparked an impassioned debate.
During a recent visit to Gondar, the complex interplay of emotions felt in the city was palpable. Many residents agree that intervention was necessary to prevent further deterioration, yet they question the aesthetic choices made in the process.
“The yellow color was part of our heritage,” said a local gift shop owner, his voice carrying a mix of nostalgia and resignation. “It made Gondar unique and instantly recognizable.”
A rickshaw driver navigating the city’s busy streets acknowledged the need for restoration but lamented the loss of the castle’s traditional character. “The renovation saved the castle from decay,” he admitted, “but the new color makes it feel like it’s been taken away from us.”
The debate over Fasilides Castle is part of a larger transformation unfolding across Ethiopia under the government’s Corridor Project—an ambitious initiative aimed at standardizing urban aesthetics. Cities like Addis Ababa, Adama, Bahir Dar, and Hawassa are seeing their buildings repainted in shades of grey as part of the program, sparking similar conversations about the balance between modernization and heritage.
Architectural experts have voiced concerns about the broader implications of Ethiopia’s approach to urban aesthetics. An Addis Ababa-based architect warned that while a coordinated color scheme for cities “is not inherently problematic, enforcing uniformity across the country risks erasing regional identities,” he said, cautioning against a one-size-fits-all approach.
The controversy over Fasilides Castle’s restoration has been further inflamed by political criticism. The primary point of contention is the shift from its previous yellowish hue to a brighter, whiter palette. Some argue that the yellowish color was never the original shade but rather a result of environmental aging over centuries. Others insist that the castle’s traditional appearance was part of Gondar’s identity and should have been preserved.
Desalegne Chanie (PhD), a member of Ethiopia’s House of People’s Representatives and a leading figure in the National Movement of Amhara (NAMA), denounced the restoration process on social media. He called the use of new lime mortar “unscientific” and argued that the castle had lost its historical integrity. “The focus on lightening the castle’s color has stripped it of its authenticity,” he wrote.
Despite the criticism, many residents of Gondar view the renovation as a necessary intervention. “The castle was deteriorating and at risk of collapse,” said a tour guide at the site. “This renovation was a rescue mission.”
Architect Fasil Giorghis, a consultant involved in the restoration, defended the process in a recent media interview, stating that it adhered to international conservation standards and was based on extensive studies of the castle’s original construction materials.
The debate over Fasilides Castle is part of a larger discussion about government-led urban projects and their impact on Ethiopian heritage. Critics argue that the Corridor Project, which seeks to standardize city aesthetics across the country, prioritizes uniformity over cultural preservation.
The push for gray facades in cities such as Addis Ababa, Adama, Bahir Dar, and Hawassa has raised practical concerns as well. Some experts point out that in Ethiopia’s hot climate, the color of the buildings could increase heat absorption, making urban spaces less livable. Others worry that imposing a singular aesthetic could erase the unique character of historic cities like Gondar, long associated with its golden hues.
But while the castle’s color has dominated discussions, many in Gondar say their concerns go far beyond aesthetics. Residents point to security, inflation, and economic instability as far more pressing issues.
During The Reporter’s visit to Gondar, residents voiced frustration over worsening economic conditions. The cost of living has skyrocketed, and crime—including robberies and kidnappings—is on the rise.
In the city’s informal markets, a liter of fuel now sells for over 300 birr—far exceeding its official price. With more than 5,000 rickshaws serving as a primary mode of transport, many drivers say they have never been able to buy fuel at gas stations due to the lack of administrative oversight.
“We’re living in a time where basic security and affordability are luxuries,” said a rickshaw driver who retired after 35 years in the military. He expressed disappointment that his decades of service seemed to hold little value in retirement. “The renovation of the castle is important, but our daily struggles overshadow its significance.”
Another resident echoed this sentiment. “The government should prioritize fixing the root causes of our problems before focusing on cosmetic changes.” Still, he admitted, he was grateful for the castle’s restoration.
The debate over Fasilides Castle has evolved into something larger than a dispute over color. It has become a reflection of the broader tensions between preservation and modernization, heritage and development—issues that will continue to shape Ethiopia’s urban landscape for years to come.
